Dior Cruise 2027 opened at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, where designer Jonathan Anderson staged his first early spring collection for the house as a film-like runway event, according to Dior.
The show leaned into Hollywood history, opening with a reference to a 1949 couture jacket from Christian Dior that Marlene Dietrich wore on screen in Alfred Hitchcock’s film Stage Fright.
Anderson threaded floral motifs through the collection, citing California poppies as a recurring visual refrain that functions like a chorus across looks. The house said the collection, titled “Wilshire Boulevard,” draws from Christian Dior’s mid-20th-century ties to Los Angeles and Hollywood visual culture.
Anderson timed the finale so the sunset fell across the misted runway, a cinematic touch that the brand emphasized in its notes. The show blended set design, lighting, and filmic pacing to present the collection as a moving narrative, Dior said.
Highlights included a collaboration with artist Ed Ruscha on a series of shirts, millinery reinterpretations by Philip Treacy, and a custom feathered headpiece referencing Isabella Blow. Denim pieces were finished with delicate chain embroidery, and a new take on the house Saddle bag appeared in a lacquered, automotive paint finish with a car-key charm.
Christian Dior’s relationship with film dates back decades, the brand said, noting early costume work before the house was formally established. The collection cited several historical touchpoints, including Dior’s wartime costume designs and mid-century cinematic collaborations.
The piece in the archive that inspired the opening jacket dates to 1949, and the house connected other references to midcentury cinema such as Jean Cocteau’s circle and Jean-Pierre Melville’s work, the brand said. Other historical film titles mentioned in the show’s notes include Les Enfants Terribles and the Hitchcock film in which Dietrich appeared.
Some source references in the original program used less familiar titles, and the brand provided archival imagery to explain those connections; one program item listed the title LeLit à Colonnes, and another listed TerminalStat on, both as archival references to early costume work. The show notes also referenced a Hitchcock title listed as Terror in the Sea of Desire.
The clothes themselves played like an homage to a Los Angeles creative milieu, with boucle coats featuring frayed cuffs, embroidered lace evening dresses, patched scarves, and shearling outerwear. Menswear mixes included sequined suits, pajama shirts paired with leather trousers, and sportswear touches translated into tailored silhouettes.
For Anderson, the show marked a visual reassessment of Dior’s Hollywood ties and a first early spring collection shaped by Los Angeles motifs. Dior Cruise 2027 will enter the house’s seasonal offering, with select pieces expected to reach boutiques later this season, Dior said.
